Kimomoki: Healing through good eating

April 6, 2012 By in Fukuoka Tags: , , , , , , , ,
Kimomoki: Healing through good eating

The juxtaposition of tradition and modernity: Eating your way to health in a West Hollywood bar-like atmosphere at Kimomoki restaurant

Written by Rinko Kawakami

As the old Chinese saying goes, “good health starts with good eating (医食同源).” Ah, another trite expression of common sense, you might think. However, this saying may take on a fresh meaning after you have tried some Chinese herbal medicinal dishes served at Kimomoki (きももき) restaurant in Fukuoka. Located in the fashionable neighborhood of Josui Dori ( 浄水通り) along with high-end interior showrooms, boutiques, cafes, and spas, Kimomoki is the kind of place where Madonna would want to stop by if she were to visit Fukuoka. Diners can experience the Asian tradition of good, healthful eating with natural herbs and novel ingredients in a West Hollywood bar-like, sophisticated atmosphere. After enjoying your porridge and hot pot meals enriched with traditional herbs while listening to jazz, you may gain a better understanding about the Asian appreciation of nature, seasons, and food all working in harmony with us in the circle of life.

Before I can convince you to try this fine restaurant located in proximity to the Fukuoka municipal zoo and botanic garden, I need to clarify what ‘medicinal dishes’ involve. While the word ‘medicinal’ may evoke the image of food that tastes too bitter or too stale to be enjoyable, everything I tried at Kimomoki was mild and tasty with a subtle hint of flavor and the aroma of herbs and fresh ingredients. I assure you that nothing actually tastes like medicine at Kimomoki. In fact, no single ingredient or herb speaks too loudly; everything complements each other in quiet harmony. What is ‘medicinal’ about dishes here is instead the prescription that comes with each menu. Based on the season you visit Kimomoki and what is bothering you at that time, the owner and chef, Hiroko Oda (小田裕子) can suggest what drinks and food you should order. For example, kumquat wine infused with rose buds (‘rosa rugosa’) and special citrus (‘citrus medica’) should alleviate stiffness in your shoulders by moving congested energy that flows within your body. Porridge with tofu skin called Yuba (湯葉) boosts your immune system with astragalus roots（黄耆）and cools down excess heat.

Hiroko worked at a pharmacy chain for over 10 years before venturing into Kimomoki. Although she had all kinds of drugs and remedies at her disposal while working at the pharmacy, she suffered from headaches, stiff shoulders, and pain in her eyes, toes, and leg joints for quite some time. No doctor of modern medicine was able to pinpoint what was wrong with her. However, a doctor of Chinese medicine she met through work told her that all her problems originated from her liver and prescribed two spoonfuls of Chinese herbal medicine. Much to her surprise, all her symptoms miraculously disappeared afterwards.

After that, she became a staunch believer of Chinese medicine and sought lessons from the doctor about seasonal food remedies. She learned the importance of understanding one’s physical constitution and maintaining balance of the body through good eating appropriate for each season. Hiroko told me that, precisely speaking, there are actually a total of 24 different seasons（二十四節気）in Japan, and there is an appropriate food remedy for each season. Hiroko wanted to apply what she had learned and to spread the good word of Chinese herbal medicine in an entertaining, affordable, and approachable way, so she opened Kimomoki restaurant in May 2011.

For those readers interested in making your dining experience at Kimomoki even more memorable by making the history come alive, I suggest you watch the epic South Korean television series Jewel in the Palace (Japanese title: 「宮廷女官チャングムの誓い」) before dining at Kimomoki restaurant. It is one of the most popular and highly-rated television series in Asia, featuring the story of an orphaned apprentice palace chef, who grows up to become the king’s first female physician during the Chosun Dynasty (朝鮮王朝), 500 years ago. During the time of year when the cherry blossoms start blooming in Minami Park, you are sure to feel like the king from Jewel in the Palace while enjoying Kimomoki’s porridge dressed up with jujube, Chinese wolfberry, and pine nuts after a relaxing walk through the park to the fashionable street of Josui.

Tea too good to go to waste: Gyokuro “Dew Drop” Tea

February 4, 2012 By in Fukuoka Tags: , , , , , , , ,
Tea too good to go to waste: Gyokuro “Dew Drop” Tea

Eating leftover Gyokuro tea leaves with vinegar and soy sauce at the Hoshino Tea Museum

Written by Rinko Kawakami

Did your tea taste too good to throw away? Then, why not eat your leftover tea leaves with vinegar and soy sauce? That is exactly what the Hoshino Tea Museum in Fukuoka suggests you do after you have enjoyed the delicate taste of Shizuku-cha®Gyokuro “Dew Drop” Tea. This tea develops in four stages, as water of different temperatures is added after each sip. Shizuku-cha® (しずく茶) is a special method of drinking Gyokuro (玉露-fine green tea) that is a registered trademark product of the Hoshino Tea Museum. This is a tea drinking experience like no other – you must try it if you visit Fukuoka.

I was born in Japan and grew up drinking quality Japanese tea throughout my life, but drinking Shizuku-cha® Gyokuro “Dew Drop” Tea was an eye-opening experience. So, imagine how transformative an experience this will be for non-Japanese people . To start with, I was amazed by the mild and sweet, yet full-bodied flavor that filled my mouth in the first stage, when the first draw of water (heated to 45°C or 113°F) was added. In the second and third stages, when water heated to 60°C (140°F) was added, I noticed this full-bodied flavor develop and deepen into a somewhat smoother, refreshing taste with an aroma of umami (pleasant, savory taste). In the fourth and final stage, when the cup was filled with 80°C (176°F) water, I enjoyed a lighter taste.

Finally, when the waiter hurriedly poured vinegar and soy sauce into my cup and told me to eat the leaves with a little fork, I was completely blown away. I ate the tea leaves just like salad, and they were deliciously bittersweet. The tea leaves tasted somewhat like fine baby spinach, but not exactly. You must try it for yourself to know exactly
what fine Gyokuro tea leaves truly taste like.

This gourmet tea drinking and eating experience is so unique that it is difficult to compare to anything, and it is even harder to describe in words. The best comparison I can give you is that the whole experience is like listening to an exquisite musical performance. You will enjoy a here and now harmony of taste and aroma that starts in piano, crescendos into forte, becomes pianissimo and ends with the big “bang” of the tea-leaf-eating experience. After trying Gyokuro “Dew Drop” Tea, you are likely to say, “I’ve had something that was called green tea before, but I don’t think I have ever really tasted green tea until this moment!”

What’s more, this experience is not only pleasurable, but it is also very good for you. Gyokuro tea leaves are rich in fiber as well as in Vitamin C and Catechin, which help prevent various unwanted health outcomes such as the common cold, high blood pressure, arteriosclerosis or even cancer. Theanine, a constituent responsible for sweetness and umami is said to increase alpha waves  in your brain to help you relax. Finally, fluorine prevents tooth decay.

After hearing all these wonderful benefits of Gyokuro tea leaves, you probably would not object to the idea of eating tea leaves. But, you might be asking, “How did anyone come up with this mind-boggling idea in the first place?” Well, it all started with the visit of a local gourmet scholar, Mutsuko Tokunaga (徳永睦子) shortly after the grand opening of the museum in 1994. Back then, the museum was experimenting with various ways to present the flavor of the best Gyokuro from the village and found this special serving method practiced by the tea school called Kofu Sencha Reishiki (皇風煎茶禮式) in Kyoto.

In this special method, one enjoys tea in dribs and drabs by sipping the tea drop that comes out from a small opening between the lid and the teacup when the lid is slightly slanted. It is worth mentioning that the teacup and lid used for Gyokuro “Dew Drop” Tea are also unique. It is called Gaiwan (蓋碗), and it is usually not used for serving Japanese tea. This teacup originated in China and was brought to Japan sometime after 1600. When the museum representatives first experimented with this Gyokuro serving method using Gaiwan, they were captivated by the way the delicate flavor of Hoshino Gyokuro developed throughout the four stages and decided to adopt it right away.

When this serving method was first introduced at the Hoshino Tea Museum, it was simply called Susuri-cha (すすり茶) or “Sip” tea, and the tea leaves were thrown away after each round of brewing. However, after being highly impressed by this extraordinary experience, the local gourmet scholar exclaimed, “Tea this good deserves a better name!” She also suggested eating the tea leaves with vinegar and soy sauce. Since then, this special method of drinking and eating Hoshino Gyokuro has been called Shizuku-cha® (しずく茶) or “Dew Drop” Tea and became the registered trademark product of the Hoshino Tea Museum in 1998.

Your admission to the museum pays for one serving of tea, and you will be given the choice of picking either Gyokuro “Dew Drop” Tea or Matcha (powdered green tea). You should definitely go for Gyokuro “Dew Drop” Tea because you can try Matcha anywhere, but you can only try Gyokuro “Dew Drop” Tea at the Hoshino Tea Museum. Take a local’s word for it. You will be glad you did.

Hoshino Tea Museum: Make your Japanese treats workshop

November 25, 2011 By in Fukuoka Tags: , , , , , ,
Hoshino Tea Museum: Make your Japanese treats workshop

Celebrate the beauty of the season: Make your Japanese treats at a workshop taught by a local confectioner at the Hoshino Tea Museum

Written by Rinko Kawakami

Located in the pristine little village in the countryside, known for stone bridges, fire flies, beautiful stars, and the top quality tea, “Hoshino Tea Museum” is the special place in Fukuoka where you can refresh your soul by immersing yourself in the goodness of Japanese tea culture while fully satisfying all of your five senses. In the “Make your Japanese treats” workshop you can create two pieces of traditional confectionaries that visually reflect the beauty of the season in Hoshino-village (星野村) with the help of a local confectioner and enjoy your creations with your choice of Shizuku-cha (しずく茶- “Gyokuro Dew Drop” tea) or Matcha (抹茶- powdered green tea).

What is more interesting than the experience of making wagashi (和菓子-a traditional Japanese confectionary) itself in this workshop might be the chance for you to meet local ladies whose love for the village drove them to master the art of wagashi making. Although none of the ladies who teach the workshop knew anything about making wagashi before the museum opened in 1994, the need to serve something sweet that complemented the delicate taste of the Hoshino tea motivated them to travel to Kyoto to learn the craft. Since then, their appreciation for the seasonal beauty of this village named “star field” helped them develop hundreds of original designs inspired by nature. So, what you are going to make in the workshop will be determined by what bounty of nature will be observed in the village at the time of your visit. In the picture you see wagashi my friend and I made that represent a bell flower and Rose of Sharon; those are the flowers that were in bloom when we visited the museum in August.

In another picture of what you will see is a ball of red bean paste and balls of what is called Nerikiri (練り切り) dough. Nerikiri here, according to Ms. Ishibashi I interviewed, is the kneaded mixture of rice flour, white bean paste, and granulated sugar with coloring. This is where you will get started in making wagashi with this workshop; you will turn those balls into work of art with the help of the local ladies. The process itself is not that complicated, but if you want to photograph good looking wagashi at the end of the session, you need to be focused and pay close attention to each small detail. But, please remember….even if you fail to make the perfect looking wagashi in the end, you will still have the memory of working together with the local to create something that shows appreciation for all the wonderful things this village offers. That, my friend, is what makes your trip to Japan unforgettable.

Today, these wagashi-making ladies call their group by the formal name of “Four Seasons Club (四季の会),” and they have shared wonderful things of Hoshino-village by visiting high schools in the region. More recently, they have travelled overseas to Korea to exchange ideas with a Korean treats making club. In addition to making wagashi, Four Seasons Club produces Yōkan (羊羹- a thick jellied dessert made of red bean paste, agar, and sugar) in three flavors: Matcha, Yuzu (柚子-Japanese citrus), and blueberry as well as unique, East-meet-West creations like Gyokuro (玉露- fine green tea) jam you can spread over bread or yogurt and Manjū (饅頭- sweet bun) called Chamu (茶夢) with buttery, Matcha taste. You can ask more about their products when you meet them.

You are probably aware by now that this workshop is not merely about learning how to make a different kind of treats, but rather it is more about learning how to express the joy of the season and appreciation of nature with a local of the Hoshino village. In this village where good old days of Japan are still alive and well, your truly “Zen” experience will only be complete after you are touched by the serene beauty of nature and the warm hearts of the local people at this workshop.

Address Hoshino Tea Museum
10816-5 Hoshino-mura
Yame, Fukuoka 834-0201
JAPAN
Phone 094-352-3003
Access description By car: About 40 minutes from the Yame Interchange or the Hirokawa Interchange off the Kyushu ExpresswayBy public transportation: From JR Hainuzuka Station take Horikawa Bus toward Yame-city. Get off at Fukushima Bus Stop in Yame-city. Take Horikawa Bus toward Hoshino-village and get off at Ikenoyama-mae Bus Stop. Walk for 10 to 15 minutes.
Parking description Ample parking: Thirty-five parking lots for cars
Open hours Hours: 10:00~17:00
Closed: Tuesdays
Admission fee *You need to pay the admission fee of 500 yen for each adult or 300 yen for each younger than 12-year-old child first to get into the museum.*If your group constitutes more than 15 people, the museum will give you a group discount of 400 yen per person for admission.*The price you pay for admission gives you entrance to the museum as well as a serving of either “Shizuku-cha –Gyokuro Dew Drop Tea” or Matcha.*You will be exempt from paying admission fee if you have lunch at “Hoshino Saryou (星野茶寮),” a restaurant inside the museum.
Make your Japanese treats workshop * Available by advance reservation of 5 or more customers. Please call to make an appointment (Appointment required).*600 yen per person for the workshop and two pieces of treats you can eat later with your choice of “Shizuku-cha-Gyokuro Dew Drop Tea” or Matcha. The price for Shizuku-cha or Matcha is included in the admission fee.* Workshop is available for a group of less than 5 customers for a higher than 600 yen per person price by reservation. Please call and let them know how many people are in your group, then they will inform you the price.* Age requirement for “Make your Japanese treats workshop”: 5 years or older
English competency Based on the 5-point English competency scale below. I give a rating of 2 to Hoshino Tea Museum
1. Unable to communicate in English
2. Understand some English with difficulty
3. Understand some English
4. Understand English
5. No problem communicating in English
Rating Based on the 5-point rating scale below, I give a rating of 5 to the overall experience at Hoshino Tea Museum
1. Some major drawbacks for average traveler but attractive to niche groups
2. Interesting location but some negatives as noted in the editorial
3. Fulfilling location and one that you should include if you have time
4. Superior location and one that you want to experience
5. Extraordinary, must see, location, unlikely to disappoint

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Sample Riki: Authentic Fake Food

November 24, 2011 By in Fukuoka Tags: , , , 6 Comments
Sample Riki: Authentic Fake Food

Uniquely Japanese hands-on experience for kids and kids at heart: Food replica making fun at Sample Riki Co., Ltd.

Written by Rinko Kawakami

One of the greatest pleasures of travel is trying local food. But, when you travel abroad and order from a menu written in a foreign language, you will often be left in suspense as to what will actually arrive at the table. However, that’s not going to be a problem if you are travelling to Japan. Before even going inside the restaurant to take a seat, diners can feast their eyes on realistic 3-D replicas of the food, beautifully showcased in the window. Food replica making is a practical art that originated in Japan in 1917 and has flourished after the war with the culture of eating out.

Food replica making studio, Sample Riki Co., Ltd., is the fun-filled place in Fukuoka where kids and kids at heart can gain hands-on experience in this uniquely Japanese craft and bring home their own, one of the kind creation that they would not see anywhere else. Founded in 1949 by Rikio Hashimoto, the studio has perfected its art from wax in the early stage to resin in more recent years. Today, the company not only offers top quality food replicas to department stores and diners throughout the Kyushu region but also entertains families and groups by teaching them how to create parfait, macarons, tempura, lettuce, and how to decorate items such as cell phones, mirrors, or other knickknacks.

Where else in the world can you fry tempura in a bowl of water and bake ice cream in an oven? At Sample Riki, you can make your own parfait and decorate them with hundreds of intricately made, life-like food mix-ins and sprinkles. You will get started by picking the sauce from six flavors: (1) strawberry, (2) blueberry, (3) melon, (4) chocolate, (5) mango, or (6) blue Hawaii. Then, squeeze the soft serve out of the big press machine, add cereals, and finish it off by adding a big dollop of whip cream. Choosing which mix-ins to include in your parfait is a big challenge because you see countless numbers of adorable bear cookies, jelly beans, berries, nuts, etc. you will be tempted to add them all! But, be very careful… you have to pay for each mix-in you choose.

If you are the kind of person who wants to really get into the action and not worry about paying for the decoration pieces, then you should go for the “Tempura and Lettuce” workshop and try tossing the tempura batter to coat shrimp, Shiitake mushrooms, pumpkin, and Shiso leaves and create lettuce layer by layer all in a bowl of warm water.

You might be happy to learn that Sample Riki is not just the place for tourists but it is an immensely popular place for local kids. All of my neighbor’s children are talking about it and begging their parents to take them there. During the summer when kids are out of school Sample Riki offers a workshop in which kids can paint their steak or hamburger, create three flavors of ice cream and make a cell phone strap. So, chances are, you will meet local children and their families at Sample Riki, and this will be part of the fun in your travel experience.

All of the instructors and staff are very friendly and patient and understand some English. They will help you each step of the way to perfect your one-of-a kind creation. The only thing they ask is that you do not smoke in their studio. Besides your own creation, you can bring home a cell-phone strap, a key chain, a magnet, or a Sushi clock as souvenirs. I recommend a cell phone strap with a pig bathing in Hakata Ramen noodle. No matter what you choose, you will have something unique to surprise your friends and start a conversation about your trip to Japan. If you are travelling anywhere around in Kyushu, Sample Riki is definitely the place you don’t want to miss.

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